![]() If you’ve ever had the pleasure of lifting the tender, moist cheek from a salt-baked sea bass, enjoyed a fried cod’s tongue in Newfoundland or Norway, stripped a salty soy-drenched grilled hamachi collar or saved a meaty halibut cheek from its usual, sad fate of being turned into mock scallops, you will understand something of the culinary pleasures concealed about the heads of fish. “I pay for the heads-why not serve them?” “Why throw anything out when it’s good?” chef Bird asked rhetorically. Why our chefs copied theirs is a simpler matter still. Grilled fish collars are a Japanese staple, so it’s only natural that in difficult economic times, their curiosity and appetite should extend to the other side of the gills. Their chefs understand better than those of any other culture where to find the tastiest parts of a fish. Its jump from the soup bowl to the dinner plate seems, unsurprisingly, to have occurred in Japanese kitchens. In the stockpot mainly, if you look to Europe in the curry pot in South Asia and in similar, vibrantly spiced stews in East Asia. How and where the trend got started is less clear, but it has obviously been simmering for some time. And instead of the customary half-head, each portion packs a full pair of them.įish heads are in. And if you prefer your fish heads crunchy, you can get your fix in Vancouver-Trevor Bird’s Fable Kitchen in Kitsilano regularly serves up lightly battered head of Lois Lake-farmed steelhead with meaty collar attached, seasoned with ginger and soy and served in a butter-lettuce wrap with pickled carrots and cilantro. It was a sloppy but flavoursome dish.Įx-Montreal chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly is turning out maple-and-soy salmon heads for New Yorkers at his popular new New York izakaya, Chez Sardine. Kazuo Atkutsu’s guillotined Atlantic salmon was marinated in soy, grilled and dressed up with a festive splatter of taste and texture representing a good part of the repertoire of the Japanese pantry, and few add-ons besides. And it was around a year previous that I tucked into a full salmon head at a quirky downtown Montreal izakaya named Kazu. That bluefish head was on the John Dory menu in the spring. Chef April Bloomfield did not get her Michelin stars for nothing.īut neither is she responsible for this relatively new culinary trend of whole-fish, fang-to-fin dining. The package was enriched by crisp-fried discs of sunchoke and brightened with a scattering of the pods and sprouts of sugar snap peas, and a good lashing of peppery olive oil. Its skin was crisp and the flesh beneath was moist and oily. Boston bluefish run large, so the head had been split lengthwise, very generously salted and then roasted. ![]() To be sure, it was a fine fish head-about as irresistible as they come. “Eat them up, yum!” And then-most uncharacteristically-she did. “ Fish heads, fish heads, roly-poly fish heads,” she sang softly, serenading the morsel of Boston bluefish on the end of her fork. Or has her singing one-for in this instance the diner seated at the counter of the John Dory Oyster Bar in Lower Manhattan was my wife. Fish heads, fish heads, eat them up, yum.The latest chapter in the adventurous western gourmand’s ongoing quest to catch up with the Third World has him singing a rather strange song.The boys ate every fish head and Oscar was particularly happy to eat the brains and eyes. Pete and I also each caught a trout and we brought them home and had an awesome dinner. The only thing with this pole is that he didn't use quite enough line and he only cast out a couple of feet. It is right up Oscars alley and he has gleaned a great deal of information from it. Patrick bought him this awesome book when we were last visiting. Olive didn't want to kiss the fish but she did want to swim with them. They have also caught a huge tuna fish and a catsalmon, a rare cross between a catfish and salmon. He really believes them which is the fun part. Hans has some great stories about himself and Grandpa Fish. But not as excited as when he caught a shark with Grandpa Fish. Also, she is not wearing a bathing suit, but her "trunks". Olive caught the first one but was totally unwilling to kiss it despite her fathers attempts. After 8 months of living here we finally caught some fish.
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